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by Karen McCarthy
Of all the herbs, tarragon is perhaps the most misunderstood.
Found mostly in French cuisine, it is the main flavoring in such
classics as veal Marengo, bearnaise sauce and tartar sauce. Its
strong licorice flavor is so assertive that it becomes the signature
of any dish. I have never met anyone who had ambivalent feelings
about tarragon: you either love it or you hate it.
With the possible exception of lemon and shallots, the distinctive
flavor of tarragon does not pair well with other flavorings. Another
exception is the classic French herb mixture "fines herbes,"
which consists of chervil, parsley, chives and tarragon. In this
context, the flavors of the other herbs do not challenge the tarragon,
but merely add to its depth. Tarragon is especially good with
seafood such as shrimp, lobster, scallops and salmon. It enhances
mild-flavored meats such as chicken, veal and rabbit, and such
vegetables as potatoes, mushrooms and tomatoes. Try adding it
to your next omelete, or sprinkling it over a green salad.
Tarragon is an excellent source of potassium, containing 145 milligrams
per tablespoon. It is also an effective breath freshener. of the
two types of tarragon available - French and Russian - the French
variety is far superior. So if you intend to plant it in your
garden, make sure to get the French variety. Dried tarragon is
an acceptable substitute only when fresh is unavailable. Use 1/2
teaspoon dried for each teaspoon of fresh. Add tarragon to a dish
only at the end of the cooking time, as long cooking can make
it bitter.
BEARNAISE SAUCE
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup tarragon vinegar
2 tablespoons finely chopped
shallots
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon
2 large egg yolks
1/2 lb. unsalted butter, melted
cayenne pepper
Put the wine, vinegar, shallots and tarragon in a heavy saucepan.
Reduce over medium heat until only 5 teaspoons remain. Cool the
mixture to lukewarm. off the heat whisk in the egg yolks one at
a time until they are well blended and slightly foamy.
Return the mixture to the stove and heat gently over low heat,
whisking constantly until it begins to stiffen and thicken slightly.
A double boiler over barely simmering water is a good choice for
this. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter slowly,
about 1 tablespoon at a time. Season with the cayenne according
to taste.
TARRAGON SALAD DRESSING
1 medium shallot
1 medium garlic clove
1/2 lb. ripe red tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarragon
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/2 cup mild-flavored olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
Chop the shallot and garlic in a food processor. Add the tomato
and puree. Add the mustard, tarragon and vinegar and process to
blend. With the motor running, add the olive oil in a thin stream.
Continue processing until well blended. Add salt and pepper to
taste. Makes about 1 cup dressing.
TARRAGON-STUFFED CORNISH GAME HENS
4 Cornish game hens
4 tablespoons softened butter
1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarragon
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons finely chopped scallions
salt and pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 350° F. Wash the game hens inside and
out and dry well. Trim any excess skin or fat from the neck and
tail. Carefully lift up the skin on the breast of each hen.
Combine the butter with the shallots, chives, tarragon, parsley
and scallions in a mixing bowl and blend well. Stuff equal amounts
of this mixture under the skin of each of the hens. Season the
hens with salt and pepper to taste.
Place the hens in a buttered baking dish about 1 1/2 inches deep.
Bake for 1 hour or until a meat thermometer registers 180°
F at the inner thigh. Serves 4.
TARRAGON VINEGAR
1 3/4 cups white wine vinegar
fresh tarragon sprigs
Heat the vinegar. Pack the tarragon loosely in a hot, sterilized
pint jar. Fill the hot jar with the vinegar mixture. Seal and
let the jar stand for two weeks, shaking daily, before using.
You can use the leaves as a substitute for fresh tarragon in most
recipes.
TARRAGON LOBSTER SALAD
2/3 cup mayonnaise (preferably homemade)
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
tarragon
1 teaspoon chopped shallots
1 lb. lobster meat
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