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by Michael Weishan
Savory was at one time the most popular of all the culinary herbs.
Before the 16th century, when exotic spices began to be imported
from the East into Europe, it was the pungent, peppery taste of
savory that was added to foods to improve their natural flavor.
Savory was a great favorite of the Romans, who introduced the
plant to the rest of Empire, even carrying savory to Britain with
the conquest in A.D. 43. It was there that the Saxons gave the
plant the name "savory" or "taste enhancer."
Its botanical name, satureja (Latin for satyr), speaks to another
of savory's historical uses. Named after those lustful half-man,
half-goat creatures of mythology, savory was reputed to increase
sexual performance - perhaps one of the principal reasons the
herb was so popular with the Romans! (Interested parties should
note that only one variety was thought to be effective, S. hortensis,
on which there is more information below.)
In addition to regulating the sex drive, savory was used to cure
a variety of ills, included those of the stomach, bowels, ear
and female reproductive system. Savory leaves also were crushed
and applied to insect bites for relief of pain and swelling.
As is the case with much of herbal lore, there is more than a
grain of truth in these ancient assertions. A tea made from savory
can treat stomach upsets and sore throats and also has antiseptic
and astringent properties. Savory was considered quite valuable
in the Colonial era, and was one of the first herbs imported into
this country, listed in John Josselyn's book New England Rarities
of 1672.
Related to mint and native to the Mediterranean area, there are
some 32 members of the savory genus, although only two are in
common cultivation. Winter savory, satureja montana, is a perennial
hardy to zone 6. It grows to about six inches, with dark green,
glossy leaves. Flowering in midsummer, the attractive blooms are
white or lilac, spotted with purple, and are very attractive to
bees. (The Roman poet Vergil reported that they make superb honey.)
Winter savory's tight, compact form makes it an attractive plant
for edging. The plant is semi-evergreen, so in mild winters it
should retain some of its foliage, which turns a bronze-green
color. Winter savory may be started either by seed or by cuttings.
To sow seeds, prepare a flat of soil-less mix, water, sow and
cover with a translucent wrap. The seed should germinate in 8
to 12 days. A helpful hint for preparing any seed flat or pot
is to place the soil in the container and then water well before
sowing the seeds. Really soak the soil and let the container drain
thoroughly before planting. (Make sure your container has holes
for drainage.) You are ready to start planting when the soil is
firm to the touch. Drop large seeds in a depression or row made
with your finger to a depth three to four times the seed's diameter.
Small seeds can be scattered on the surface of the soil and lightly
covered with the damp mix. In either case, if you water the soil
well before planting, you avoid the risk of dislodging and washing
away the seeds. Winter savory dislikes having its feet wet for
extended periods of time, so provide a well-drained spot and don't
overwater.
Don't be discouraged if your plant peters out after a few years.
I have found winter savory to be a rather short-lived perennial
that needs to be replaced periodically, either partially through
division in the early spring or in its entirety with seeds or
cuttings. Summer savory, satureja hortensis, is an annual, growing
1 to 1.5 feet, a little taller than its winter cousin. It germinates
readily from seed in 7 to 10 days and may be transplanted directly
into the garden or, when the plant has several sets of true leaves,
into a pot. Summer savory also flowers in midsummer; its white
blooms have a blush of pink. The entire plant is fragrant. The
grayish-green leafed stems may have a tendency to flop over as
they mature. One good tip is to mound the soil around the base
of the plant to provide support, something most plants resent
but which doesn't seem to bother summer savory. Because it requires
more water than winter savory, water and fertilize your summer
savory well.
COOKING WITH SAVORY
by Karen McCarthy
RED BEANS WITH SAVORY AND RICE
1 cup red beans
1 3/4 cup chicken stock
1 cup water
1 cup canned tomatoes
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 ounces bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
Tabasco sauce, to taste
1/2 cup onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh savory, minced hot cooked rice
Place the beans in a medium sauce-pan. Cover with water, and bring
to a boil for 1 minute. Remove the pot from the heat, and allow
the beans to stand for 2 hours. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Combine
the stock, water, tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce, bay leaves,
and Tabasco in a large pot with a cover. Bring to a boil, stir
in the bacon, onion, garlic, savory, and beans.
Cover the pot and bake for about 1 1/2 hours or until the beans
are tender. Taste and add salt if desired. Serve over rice. Serves
6
ROAST CHICKEN WITH SAVORY
This is just as wonderful when served cold as it is
when served hot.
1 roasting chicken, about 5 pounds
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons fresh savory, minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 oranges
1 tablespoon honey
Preheat the oven to 400 F. Wash and dry the chicken. Rub it inside
and out with the garlic, savory, salt and pepper. Place the garlic
clove and some of the savory in the cavity. Squeeze the juice
of one of the oranges over the chicken and place one half of the
orange in the cavity of the bird. Mix the remaining orange juice
with the honey. Place the chicken in the oven and roast, basting
frequently with the orange juice and honey mixture for 1 to 1
1/2 hours. Serves 4 to 6
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