|
You can tell zucchini season has arrived when friends
you didn't know you had are dropping their excess vegetables on
your doorstep and then making a quick getaway. When I moved to
Alaska, I thought I might get a reprieve. I figured zucchini wouldn't
be able to grow this far north. As it turns out, it's one of the
few vegetables that does grow here, and possibly even in greater
numbers than in the lower 48. All kidding aside, I love zucchini
not only because it is one of the great harbingers of the dog
days of summer, but because it is delicious. And as one of the
only people on the planet who has never successfully grown zucchini,
I am usually grateful for the gifts.
Although a summer squash, like most everything else these days
zucchini is generally available in markets year round. Similar
to their winter counterparts, summer squashes are warm-weather
annual vines that produce lobed leaves and edible yellow flowers.
The summer squashes have soft skins and are eaten in their early
stages, while the winter squashes (Traditional
Gardening, Autumn 1998) have hard shells that make them
suitable for winter storage.
The best zucchini for eating are less than 7 inches long, with
a smooth, unblemished skin. Because zucchini is comprised mostly
of water, it is best to use it within a day or two of purchasing
or picking. Unlike most other vegetables, zucchini should be cooked
long enough to loose its crunch and raw taste, but not long enough
to turn it to mush. The vegetable pairs particularly well with
the classic flavors of the Mediterranean:tomato, basil, and garlic,
as well as lemon, Parmesan cheese, parsley and anchovies. Zucchini
blossoms can also be deep-fried or stuffed:a manner of preparation
favored in Italy.
A good way to make sure that a zucchini crop doesn't get ahead
of you is to harvest the vegetables when they are young. Zucchini
picked when they are 3 to 4 inches long, or just after the blossoms
fall off, are wonderful sauted either whole or split in half lengthwise,
with garlic, olive oil, and salt and pepper. If left to their
own devices, zucchini have been known to grow to the size of a
baseball bat. The best way to dispose of these specimens is to
throw them in the compost pile. As spectacular looking as they
are, large zucchini develop a hard skin, something like winter
squash, and their somewhat bitter flesh consists mostly of large
seeds.
GRILLED VEGETABLES WITH COUSCOUS
This is a great summer dish that uses lots of garden vegetables.
It is best made ahead and served at room temperature.
1 eggplant cut crosswise into
1/2-inch thick slices
3 6- or 7-inch zucchini cut crosswise into 1/2-inch thick slices
1 red onion, unpeeled, cut into
1/2-inch thick slices
3 portobello mushrooms,
stems removed
1 red pepper
olive oil for brushing vegetables
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon red pepper
flakes, or to taste
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 cups cooked couscous
1/3 cup slivered fresh basil
Preheat the grill to medium high. Brush the vegetables lightly
with the olive oil. Grill the eggplant, zucchini, and onion until
tender and slightly charred. Grill the mushrooms until they are
tender and begin to give up their juices. Grill the red pepper
until the skin is charred and blistered. Remove the pepper from
the grill and seal in a plastic zip-top bag.
Put the eggplant, zucchini and mushrooms into 1/2-inch dice. Remove
the skin from the onion and cut into 1/2-inch dice. Remove the
pepper from the bag and slip off the skin (it should come right
off, but if a few pieces of charred skin remain it will only enhance
the flavor). Cut the pepper into 1/2-inch dice. Combine all of
the grilled vegetables in a large bowl.
In a small bowl, combine the garlic, balsamic vinegar, red pepper
flakes, salt and pepper. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Pour the
dressing over the vegetables and toss to combine. Place the couscous
in a large serving bowl and top with the vegetables. Sprinkle
with the slivered basil. Makes 6 servings.
ZUCCHINI-DILL MUFFINS
I generally don't care for zucchini cakes, breads and muffins,
but these savory muffins make a delicious addition to a breadbasket.
1/2 cup pecans
1 1/2 cups flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup milk
1/2 cup butter melted
2 large eggs
2/3 cup ricotta cheese
1/2 cup shredded zucchini
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread pecans on a baking sheet and
bake for about 12 minutes or until fragrant and toasted. Allow
to cool and chop coarsely. Raise oven temperature to 400 degrees.
Grease 12 muffin pan cups or 36 mini-muffin cups.
In a medium bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt.
In a small bowl, combine the milk, butter and eggs. Stir in the
ricotta cheese, zucchini and dill and mix to combine well.
Add the cheese mixture to the flour mixture and stir until just
moistened (batter will be stiff). Add the toasted pecans and mix
until just blended. Fill prepared muffin pans and bake until golden
brown; 20 to 25 minutes for the standard size or 12 to 15 minutes
for the mini-muffins. Remove from pans and serve immediately.
Makes 12 standard or 35 mini muffins.
GRILLED SEA BASS WITH ZUCCHINI PANCAKES
AND PARSLEY BUTTER SAUCE
4 sea bass filets
salt and freshly ground pepper
For the pancakes:
3 6- or 7-inch zucchini, grated
1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup dry bread crumbs
1/4 cup all purpose flour
1 bunch scallions, white and light green parts only, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
freshly grated nutmeg, to taste
For the Parsley Butter Sauce:
1 can anchovy filets
1 bunch parsley, stems removed
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted
Sprinkle the bass with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until ready
to use.
Make the pancakes: Toss the grated zucchini with the salt. In
a large bowl, combine the eggs, cheese, bread crumbs, flour, scallions,
garlic, parsley, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Mix until well combined.
Briefly rinse the zucchini with water. Using your hands, squeeze
the extra moisture out of the rinsed zucchini. Add to the batter
and stir to combine.
Heat the oil in a skillet until hot but not smoking. Drop the
batter into the pan by spoonfuls, and use the back of a spatula
to flatten into 3-inch pancakes. Fry over medium heat until the
bottom is golden brown, about 4 minutes. Turn and brown the second
side. Keep the pancakes warm in the oven while you fry the remaining
batter, adding more oil as needed.
Preheat the grill to medium.
To make the sauce: Combine the anchovies, parsley and butter in
a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Process the mixture
until well combined.
Grill the bass until the flesh just flakes, about 4 or 5 minutes
per side. Place 3 pancakes on each plate and top with a bass filet.
Spoon the anchovy butter over the top. Makes 4 servings.
You will most likely have extra zucchini pancakes. The leftovers
make a wonderful side dish; top the pancake with a ripe tomato
slice and grated Parmesan cheese, then place under the broiler
until the cheese melts and the tomato is heated.
ZUCCHINI AND TOMATO GRATIN
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes,
cored and thinly sliced
4 6- to 7-inch zucchini cut
into 1/4-inch slices
1/2 cup slivered basil leaves
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 cup fine dry bread crumbs
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons pine nuts,
coarsely chopped
salt and freshly ground
black pepper to taste
In a skillet, heat the oil. Add the onions and sautZ until
they begin to wilt. Turn the heat to medium-low and continue to
cook until the onions have caramelized to a rich, brown color,
about 20 minutes.
Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the tomatoes on paper towels
to drain. Oil a gratin dish or other shallow baking dish. Spread
the caramelized onions over the bottom of the dish. Place a layer
of zucchini slices over the onion, overlapping the zucchini slices
slightly. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and half of the slivered
basil, and drizzle with olive oil. Repeat this for the next layer
using the tomato slices.
Combine the bread crumbs, cheese and pine nuts. Sprinkle the mixture
over the gratin. Bake the gratin for 60 to 70 minutes. Let rest
for 10 minutes before serving. Makes 6 servings.
|
