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by Michael Weishan
Lovage is dear to my heart for two reasons: Not only is it the
perfect pairing for some of my favorite foods, like tomatoes,
rice, and chicken dishes, but it also makes a spectacular specimen
in the garden. Its glossy, dark-green, celery-like leaves rise
up from 5 foot stems which, come June, are topped with small chartreuse-colored
flowers. Lovage makes a perfect focal point for the border and
lends a dramatic sense of verticality to any garden. Given both
its culinary and aesthetic attributes, one would expect to find
lovage growing in every plot. The reality is that this lovely
plant is noticeably absent from most gardens.
This was not always the case. As a native of the mountainous areas
of the Mediterranean, Levisticum officinale has been in cultivation
for several millennia. A perennial herb belonging to the carrot
family, lovage was a required plant in Emperor Charlemagne s gardens,
and was one of most popular herbs during the middle ages, when
its aromatic seeds were used in cordials and confectionery. Its
medicinal attributes abounded as well: Lovage was a principal
ingredient in cures for rheumatism, jaundice and sore throats,
and its leaves and stalks made into a tea for use as a diuretic
and to treat minor stomach ailments. A preparation made from its
roots, added to bath water or made into a salve, also was thought
to help clear up skin problems. Lovage leaves were even placed
in travelers shoes to soothe weary feet.
Lovage has long been used as a flavoring in soups, stews, and
salads. In America, where the plant arrived with the first Colonists,
lovage was a valuable addition to the early spring diet when other
types of vegetables were still many months away. The plant s leaves,
stems and seeds all taste remarkably like celery, and were used
as a celery substitute. For those of you trying to reduce salt
in your diet, try adding a teaspoon or so of fresh, chopped lovage
to your salad. Its strong flavor heightens taste without the need
for salt. But a word to the wise: Lovage may taste like celery,
but it s far more concentrated and a little goes a long way.
Growing lovage couldn t be simpler. In fact, finding the plant
to purchase is probably the most difficult part of the process.
While the plant can be propagated either by seed (sown in the
fall) or by division, starting seeds is probably easiest as they
readily germinate. Because you probably won t need more than one
or two plants in the garden, share your seedlings with friends
or neighbors. If you are lucky enough to know someone with lovage
already in their garden, the plant may also be propagated by division
from an established clump in the spring. Place the young plant
in a sunny part of your plot in rich, loamy soil. A heavy feeder,
lovage will reward good soil preparation with dark-green growth;
pale leaves are the plant s way of telling you it needs more fertilizer.
The leaves and roots may be harvested after the first season.
A word to the wise, however: this is one plant that actually grows
to the full advertised height, so make sure it has sufficient
space to mature. The large bloom stalks, which will appear in
the second and subsequent years, can be cut back at any time to
produce a more compact plant, though I rather like the pale yellow
blooms and generally wait to cut them down until after flowering.
Cooking With Lovage
by Karen McCarthy
Until a few years ago, I knew nothing about lovage except that
my mother grew it as an ornamental in her herb garden. The last
several years, though, I have had the opportunity to cook with
it on a regular basis and feel that it is sadly under- utilized
as a culinary herb.
Lovage has a strong flavor of celery with a hint of anise, which
explains why the French call it celeri b‘tard or false celery.
Lovage pairs well with tomatoes (my favorite), potatoes, and rice.
It also can be tossed into salads, used in soups and stews, and
it makes an interesting addition to herb pastas. Make sure that
you taste carefully when adding lovage. It has a strong flavor
and can easily overpower what you re adding it to. Although the
stalks can be cooked and used as a vegetable, I prefer to chop
the leaves and use them. Lovage seeds (sometimes called celery
seed) can be added into breads and lend an unusual flavor to meatloaf.
BLOODY MARYS
The hollow stalks of lovage and its celery-like flavor make
an unusual addition to this brunch classic.
1 quart tomato juice
1/2 cup lime juice
2 tablespoons prepared horseradish
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce (or to taste)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
11/2 cups vodka
6 10-inch lovage stalks, leaves cut off
Combine all ingredients except lovage in a pitcher and stir well.
Pour over ice in 6 tall glasses and garnish with the lovage stalks,
which should be used as straws. Serves 6
LOBSTER AND POTATO SALAD WITH LOVAGE
2 1/2 pounds live lobsters, cooked and meat removed, or 8 ounces
cooked lobster meat, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1 pound red bliss potatoes, cooked and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 tablespoons chopped shallots
1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup chopped lovage leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
red leaf lettuce for garnish
chopped fresh chives for garnish
In a large bowl, combine the lobster and potatoes. Toss gently,
to keep the potatoes from breaking up.
In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, sour cream, lemon juice,
shallots, parsley, and lovage leaves. Combine well. Add the mayonnaise
mixture to the lobster and potato mixture and toss gently until
combined. Season with salt and pepper.
Line 4 salad plates with the lettuce and mound the salad on top.
Sprinkle with chives. Serves 4 as a main course.
CORN CHOWDER WITH LOVAGE
1/2 cup bacon, diced
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup chopped onion
6 cups chicken broth
1 1/2 pounds red potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch dice
3 cups fresh corn kernels, cut from the cob
2 cups half and half
1/3 cup chopped lovage leaves
salt and pepper to taste
Cook the bacon in a large soup pot over medium heat until crisp.
Add butter and melt.
Add the onions to the pot and saute until wilted, about 7 minutes.
Add the broth, and the potatoes. Bring the broth to a boil, then
lower the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes or until the potatoes
are tender. Add the corn, the lovage, and the half and half and
continue to cook for an additional 10 minutes. Season with salt
and pepper. Serves 6.
NOTE: Do not allow the chowder to boil after adding the half
and half or the soup will curdle.
MARINATED CHERRY TOMATOES WITH LOVAGE
This recipe appeared in Traditional Gardening last summer,
but it s such a wonderful dish it certainly bears repeating here.
1 pint red cherry tomatoes
1 pint yellow pear cherry tomatoes
1/4 cup finely chopped lovage leaves
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
In a small bowl, combine the tomatoes, lovage, oil vinegar, and
salt and pepper. Cover and let marinate at room temperature for
at least an hour. Serve at room temperature. Serves 4.
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