|
by Karen McCarthy
Just as asparagus signals the beginning of spring, ripe tomatoes
mean that the dog days of summer are here. Few culinary experiences
can match eating that first ripe tomato of the summer right in
the garden, still warm from the sun.
Because vine-ripened tomatoes are highly perishable, most supermarkets
carry tomatoes that are picked green and then gassed with ethylene
to ripen. These are the hard pink-orange globes that we see in
the supermarket for nine months of the year. In the past year,
however, I have seen more of the expensive "cluster"
tomatoes in stores. While these are a huge improvement over the
others, they often taste flat. The best test of a ripe, flavorful
tomato is to smell it. If it doesn't smell like a tomato, chances
are it won't taste like one either. Rather than buy out-of-season
tomatoes, I believe it makes more sense to grow your own and then
freeze tomatoes in the fall when they are delicious and plentiful.
(The old heirloom variety, Brandywine, is one of my favorite all-purpose
tomatoes for freezing.) Seed, chop and cook the tomatoes on top
of the stove for about 20 minutes to evaporate as much moisture
as possible, and then put them in freezer bags or containers and
pop them in the freezer. They won't have the same texture as fresh
tomatoes, but the taste will more than make up for that in January.
Another way to deal with the end-of-the-season "glut"
is to dry tomatoes for use later (instructions follow).
There are three basic varieties of tomatoes (for cooking purposes):
the standard round, which is best for slicing on sandwiches or
salting and eating as-is; plum, or Roma, tomatoes, which have
a higher ratio of flesh to seeds and are most often used for sauces
and soups; and cherry, which are small and exceptionally sweet
and are best used in salads and for garnishing.
Probably the most common flavor combinations with tomatoes are
basil and garlic. Sliced tomatoes with basil leaves, olive oil,
salt and freshly ground pepper make a simple and outstanding side
dish. To add a new and different twist to cooked tomato dishes,
try roasting the tomatoes. Roasting adds depth and sweetness to
tomatoes that translates beautifully into the finished dish.
When using fresh tomatoes in recipes, it is often necessary to
peel and seed them because the peels and seeds take on an unpleasant
taste after cooking. To peel tomatoes, core and cut an 'X' in
the bottom. Drop the tomatoes in a pot of rapidly boiling water
for about 5 seconds and remove to a bowl of ice water. The skins
should slip right off. To seed, cut the tomato crosswise in half
and squeeze the tomato half to force out the seeds. Always store
tomatoes at room temperature, as refrigeration destroys the taste
and texture.
ROASTED TOMATOES
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Core the tomatoes, cut in half
and squeeze out the seeds. Rub the tomato halves with olive oil
and place cut side down in a shallow roasting pan. Roast the tomatoes
for about 50 minutes or until they are soft and their skins crack
and blister.
MARINATED CHERRY TOMATOES WITH LOVAGE
I created this side dish for our editor Michael Weishan several
years ago because he loves the combination of tomatoes and the
herb lovage. It's worth growing lovage for this dish alone!
1 pint red cherry tomatoes
1 pint yellow pear cherry tomatoes
1/4 cup finely chopped lovage leaves (or a combination of parsley
and basil)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
In a small bowl, combine the tomatoes, lovage, oil, vinegar, salt
and pepper. Cover and marinate at room temperature for at least
an hour. Serve at room temperature. Serves 4.
BRUSCHETTA
3 ripe round tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
freshly ground black pepper
3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed lightly with the side of a
knife
12 1/2-inch slices crusty French or Italian bread
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Combine tomatoes, basil, vinegar and pepper to taste in a small
mixing bowl.
Preheat the grill. Brown the bread on both sides and while still
hot, rub one side of each slice with the mashed garlic and drizzle
with the olive oil.
Top the bread slices with the tomato mixture and serve immediately.
Serves 2-4.
NOTE: This is best while the bread is still hot. If you wish
to make it ahead, top the bread with the tomatoes just before
serving to prevent the bread from getting soggy.
GRILLED TOMATO PIZZA
This pizza is worth every bit of the preparation time. I find
that homemade pizza dough is the easiest to work with, but if
you don't have time, you can use frozen.
For the dough:
1 package active dry yeast
3/4 cup warm (100 degrees) water
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
*2 cups all purpose flour
For the topping:
1/2 cup pancetta or good-quality bacon, chopped
1 sweet onion, such as Vidalia, Maui or Walla Walla, sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
4 garlic cloves, minced
3 large ripe tomatoes, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
1/3 cup shredded basil leaves
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
extra virgin olive oil
Make the dough: Dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup of the water. Let
stand 5 minutes or until foamy. Mix in the remaining 1/2 cup water,
oil and salt. Gradually mix in the flour, Knead the dough until
it is smooth and elastic, either by hand or in a mixer with a
dough hook. Place the dough in a large, lightly oiled bowl, cover
it with a dish towel and set it in a warm place that is free of
drafts. Allow the dough to rise for about an hour or until it
has doubled in size.
While the dough is rising, make the topping. In a skillet over
medium-high heat, saute the pancetta or bacon until it is crisp.
Remove the bacon and drain on paper towels. Pour off all but 2
1/2 tablespoons of the fat. Saute the onions and rosemary in the
fat until the onions start to get soft, about 4 minutes. Add the
garlic, and continue to cook until the onions are soft and golden.
Light the grill. If you are using a charcoal grill, bank the coals
to one side. If you are using a gas grill, heat one side on high
and the other side on low. Divide the dough into four equal pieces
and flatten into 8-inch rounds. Have all of your topping ingredients
ready and close at hand before you start to grill the pizzas.
When your grill is heated, place a round of dough on the hot side
of the grill. When it has puffed up and has grill marks on the
underside, flip it over onto the side of the grill with lower
heat. Spread the onion mixture evenly over the round and top with
several slices of tomatoes, overlapping. Sprinkle with the reserved
bacon, feta, basil, salt and pepper and drizzle with a little
of the olive oil. Close the cover of the grill to melt the cheese
and finish cooking the dough, about 5 minutes. Repeat with remaining
dough rounds and toppings. Serves 4.
DRIED TOMATOES
This is a wonderful way to store tomatoes. You can use them
in any recipe calling for sun-dried tomatoes.
4 lbs. ripe, but not overly soft, tomatoes
kosher or sea salt
distilled white vinegar
mild-flavored olive oil
sprigs of fresh rosemary
Rinse and dry the tomatoes. Core and halve or quarter them, depending
on how large they are. If they contain a lot of seeds, you may
want to scrape some of them out.
Arrange the tomatoes cut side up on cake racks and sprinkle them
lightly with the salt.
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees and place the tomatoes in the
oven for 30 minutes. After this time, reset the oven temperature
to "warm" and leave the oven door ajar. Dry the tomatoes
until they have a leathery, not hard, texture. This should take
6 to 8 hours depending on the water content of the tomatoes. If
it is more convenient, the drying can be done in more than one
session.
Cool the tomatoes completely, place them in a bowl, sprinkle them
with the vinegar and toss to moisten. Place them on paper towels
and pat dry thoroughly. Pack the tomatoes into a clean pint jar,
add a sprig of rosemary and pour in enough olive oil to cover
the tomatoes completely, making sure that no bits protrude. Cap
the jar tightly and place it in a cool, dry place for at least
a month. As you use the tomatoes, make sure the oil completely
covers those that remain in the jar or they will spoil.
PENNE WITH TOMATOES AND BASIL
This uncooked pasta sauce is light and delicious - perfect
for lazy summer days.
4 ripe, red tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1/2 lb. fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
1 cup fresh basil leaves, shredded
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 1/2 lbs penne pasta
Combine the tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, garlic, olive oil, salt
and pepper in a shallow pasta bowl.
Cook the pasta in 6 quarts of boiling, salted water for 6 to 8
minutes, or until al dente.
Drain the pasta and immediately toss with the tomato mixture in
the bowl. Serve at once. Serves 6.
Karen McCarthy, Traditional Gardening's food editor, is the
chef and founder of An Affair to Remember Catering in Southborough,
Mass., 508. 624.7630.
|
