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by Michael Weishan
The next time you pass over that bit of green garnish on your
plate, stop and think again, for that parsley -- so commonplace
as to go almost unnoticed -- is one of the oldest, tastiest, most
nutritious, and easiest to grow of all our culinary herbs.
The cultivation of parsley predates written history. Native to
the Mediterranean area, parsley was commonplace in ancient Greece,
not as a culinary herb, but as an ornamental plant used to decorate
graves and make funeral wreathes. The origin of this association
with death is a bit obscure, but seems to derive from the myth
of Archemorus, a young man who was killed by a giant serpent while
aiding the Seven Heroes against the tyrant of Thebes; in memory
of the youth's sacrifice and death the Seven instituted a new
athletic competition, the Nemean Games, the victors of which were
crowned with garlands of parsley. It was not until Roman times
that parsley became a popular culinary herb, used not only in
combination with other herbs to augment flavor in foods, but also
alone as a after-party means of cleansing the palette and removing
the smell of alcohol from the breath. (From whence comes our use
of parsley as a garnish.) Parsley has continued in culinary use
ever since, and during the Middle Ages was also used cosmetically
as a cure for baldness, and medicinally as a diuretic.
In addition to consuming large quantities themselves, the Romans
also fed parsley to their racehorses to keep them strong and fit.
Given what we know today of the number of vitamins parsley contains,
it is no wonder: parsley is a veritable natural megavitamin. One
cup contains more beta carotene than a carrot, twice as much vitamin
C as a orange, more calcium than a cup of milk, and the iron equivalent
of twenty servings of liver!! (Mothers of finicky eaters, take
note!). With its mild, gentle flavor, parsley is the perfect flavorful
and healthy addition to many dishes -- there really is no reason
not to grow some of your own.
Parsley is very easy to grow, if you keep some basic facts in
mind. There are two basic types of parsley, curly and flat leafed.
Which you decide to grow is a matter of choice, although some
chefs, myself included, feel that the flat leafed type is a bit
tastier. Regardless of the type, parsley likes sun, and its seeds
require fairly warm temperatures to germinate. Therefore its best
to start parsley seeds indoors. Here at The Kitchen Garden, we
like to soak the seed overnight in warm water before planting.
After soaking, plant the seed about 1/4-1/2 inch deep in a sterile
soil-less mix; cover the container with a translucent cover (saran
wrap bound loosely to the top of the container will due in a pinch)
and set the planter in a warm 65-70 ), bright spot. The seeds
may take up to three weeks to germinate, so don't despair if nothing
appears immediately. Once the seedlings are an inch or two high,
they can be transplanted to their permanent home; outside, around
May 15, or inside, into a pot in a sunny window. (If all this
sounds too complicated, most good nurseries and herb growers carry
potted parsley -- be sure to ask for organically started plants,
if available). Parsley is not a fussy grower, but it is a heavy
feeder and requires a rich soil mix and regular fertilization
for best growth. In the garden, I like to group several parsley
plants together for a larger effect (and more parsley!) both in
the herb garden and intermixed in the perennial border, as parsley's
leaves are an ideal counterpoint for many flowers and foliage
plants. Although parsley is technically a biennial, meaning that
it will live for two years, I find that the leaves produced in
the second year when the plant attempts to flower are neither
particularly tender nor tasty. Thus its generally better to treat
parsley as an annual herb and re-sow every year for a fresh crop.
From the Kitchen Garden
by Karen McCarthy
First a word or two about storage. Parsley may be cut a leaf
at a time for kitchen use, or if you prefer, cut and bunched for
convenience. There are two ways to store parsley. For long storage,
chop parsley and wrap in two layers of cheesecloth. Hold the cheesecloth
bundle under cold running water until the water no longer runs
green. Remove the parsley from the cheesecloth and refrigerate
in an airtight container. (This method is most effective if the
chopped parsley will be used as a garnish) Using this method,
the parsley will last for about two weeks. For short storage,
place the parsley bouquet upright, with the stems in a glass of
water. This will keep the parsley from wilting.
Parsley is generally used either as a garnish, or in large quantity
as pronounced seasoning. The first two recipes are some of my
favorite garnish uses, the next three feature parsley as the main
flavoring.
GREMOLATA
Combine chopped parsley, minced garlic, and minced lemon zest
(about 1 Tbs. of each). Sprinkle over fish, grilled chicken or
steamed broccoli or asparagus.
PERSILLADE
Combine chopped parsley (about 1/2 Tbs. of each) and minced shallots.
Use on steamed or sautéed cauliflower or grilled steak.
PARSLEY-ANCHOVY BUTTER
1 bunch parsley, stems removed
1 2-oz flat anchovy fillets
1 stick of butter, melted
Combine all ingredients in a work bowl of a food processor and
pulse to chop parsley and combine ingredients. Serve over grilled
fish (especially good with swordfish) or as a dip with vegetables
or cubes of fresh mozzarella wrapped in proscuitto.
TABBOULEH
1 cup cracked wheat
boiling water
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh mint
1 1/2 cups finely chopped parsley
1 cup finely shopped onion or scallion
3/4 cup peeled, seeded and finely chopped tomato
3/4 cup olive oil
1 cup lemon juice
freshly ground pepper to taste
Salt to taste
2 tsp. minced garlic (optional)
Place the cracked wheat in a mixing bowl and add boiling water
barely to cover. Let stand 30 minutes or until all the liquid
is absorbed. The wheat should become tender yet still be somewhat
firm to the bite. If the wheat is too dry, add a little more boiling
water. Let the wheat cool well. Mix in the remaining ingredients
thoroughly, but gently. Serve white wedges of fresh pita bread.
Serves 6 to 8.
CHICKEN BREASTS WITH PARSLEY POACHED IN
CHAMPAGNE
4 halves of chicken breast
1/2 cup chopped parsley
2 cups of champagne
2 tablespoons flour
salt and pepper to taste
Place chicken breasts in a skillet with a touch of olive oil and
brown lightly. Add the parsley, salt and pepper, and champagne.
Cover and poach over low heat until the chicken is done (10-15
minutes). Remove some of the champagne sauce to a separate bowl,
add the flour, and whisk until smooth. Return the mix to the skillet
and blend with the remaining sauce. Cook for two minutes or until
the sauce thickens. Serve 4, and with saffron rice and a salad
makes a delicious, low cal meal.
Karen McCarthy is a chef and founder of An Affair to Remember
Catering in Southborough
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