by Michael Weishan

One of the first things I did when I bought my house and moved to Southborough was plant an orchard of antique apples. Some people at the time thought that strange, especially since the 1852 house I had purchased had neither working plumbing nor electrical systems, and both the house and outbuildings needed immediate repair and renovation from rooftops to foundation. While the workmen rebuilt the flues, ripped out rotted sills, restored the wide-plank floors and otherwise made a complete disaster of the interior, I, oblivious to all except the mounting expenses, blithely cleared a piece of overgrown land and set out the trees I had purchased even before the house deal was finalized.

Friends and neighbors would stop by and note the progress of the construction work, and cast a bemused glance in my direction as I worked away at my orchard. You see, I had been bitten the winter previous by the antique apple bug - seduced by catalogue descriptions of luscious long-forgotten apples that were old when the Colonies were young - deliciously redolent apples not only perfect for eating out of hand, but also for baking, cider, cooking and general storage. The catalogue described fruit of sonorous name and historic associations like Roxbury Russet, Tompkins' Country King, Cox's Orange Pippin and Duchess de Oldenburg. The books and catalogues promised culinary delights unknown to the modern purchaser of our hard, tasteless supermarket varieties, notable only for their cosmetic perfection, and I took the bait.

Now, four years later, the first real harvest is in, the catalogues were right, and friends and neighbors ponder my sanity no longer, as they are too busy marveling over these magnificent, long-lost varieties and wondering why they themselves don't have a tree or two in their back yard. This is a very good question, because as little as 50 years ago, no homeowner or gardener of note would have been without a small home orchard, not only of apples, but also a few cherries, peaches and pears. If you look closely at the landscape plans from Scott in the article on walks and drives, you will see indications for at least a few fruit trees on even the smallest property. At the time, of course, this planting was a matter of culinary necessity. Fruit was often expensive and impossible to find out of season, and every industrious family harvested and preserved their own if they wanted fresh fruit in winter. Nowadays, although fruit is still expensive, the necessity is one of connoisseurship. If you wish to experience fruit with a truly unique flavor, aroma and texture unlike any apple you have probably ever tasted in the store, you must grow your own historic apples.

Modern apples like Delicious (which really aren't) are bred only for cosmetic appearance and shelf life, unlike early varieties which were specialized not only for flavor but also for purpose. Specialty apples were developed for cooking, general eating, pressing for cider, winter storage ability and the king of all uses, desserts. The list of apple varieties was at one time almost endless; and thanks to the work of some hardy souls who refused to see their favorite varieties pass into oblivion, a remarkable number are still available today for purchase. (Miller Nursery in Canandaigua, NY (800)836-9630 and Southmeadow Fruit Gardens in Lakeside, MI, are but two sources.)

When I ask my clients if they have considered growing some fruit trees in the landscape, their answer is almost invariably, "Yes, but they are so much trouble and so messy that we never tried." As to the latter, my answer is that once you taste some of these antique varieties, there will be few if any left on the ground. (Horse and other animal owners take note - windfalls are great feed.)

As to the issue of trouble, while it is true that apple trees require a bit of care, they really demand no more work than many common landscape plants. Roses, iris and perennial borders in general, are far more work for instance, and the rewards of having a few fruit trees of your own well outweigh the efforts involved. Just be sure that when you choose your trees, you purchase dwarf (8-10 feet high) or semi-dwarf (12-15 feet high) species, even if you plan to devote a considerable space to the enterprise. These smaller trees produce much more fruit per square foot than their full size counterparts, and much sooner too, so you can have many more varieties and harvest earlier than with standard size trees. Personally, I prefer semi-dwarfs. They don't need to be staked like dwarfs, produce a nicer looking tree and are still small enough to pick without too much trouble.

Although the specifics of apple and fruit tree growing are outside the scope of this piece, I recommend two excellent sources that demystify the whole process and will make you wonder why you didn't get started sooner. One is Stella Otto's The Backyard Orchardist (Otto Graphics: 1993); the other is Lewis Hill's Fruits and Berries for the Home Garden (Storey Publishing: 1992).

Here's a list of my 10 favorite antique apples. These are personal favorites, and as you become acquainted with apple connoisseurship, you'll realize the extremely subjective nature of the debate, so by all means try others as well!

Calville Blanc d'Hiver
As its name implies, this is one of the best apples for winter storage; it is considered the classic dessert apple in France. Calville predates 1627, when Le Lectier grew it for Louis XIII. A large flatish apple, pale green at picking, turns pale yellow in storage. Fleshy, tender and spicy, with more vitamin C than an orange! Also good for cider and cider vinegar. A late apple, maturing in October-November.

Cox's Orange Pippin
A premiere English variety, another dessert apple, which predates 1830. According to Nitschke of Southmeadow: "Of red and yellow skin, it is unsurpassed in the tender juiciness of its yellow textured flesh that lingers on the tongue like ice cream." Bears the end of September.

Fameuse (Snow Apple)
Grown by 1730 on the shores of Lake Champlain, this apple was brought to Canada from France. "Its pure white flesh, sometimes streaked with red for the dark red skin, is juicy and refreshing eaten out of hand." Ripens in October.

Lady
One of the oldest apples in existence, Lady dates to Imperial Rome. Grown throughout the Middle Ages, the variety was especially prized because of its small size by ladies of the French court - it fit easily into the pockets of their dresses! Small and flatish with a reddish-green skin; the flesh is white, crisp and very juicy. Known in Colonial America as a "fancy apple," it was used for dessert at the holidays as well as decorations in wreaths. A very late apple, ripening in November.

Roxbury Russet
Originating in Roxbury MA, about 1700, the Roxbury Russet was once a premiere commercial variety. Today, unless you grow it yourself, you won't be able to partake of "its austere perfection and refinement of character." A great keeper, this October ripener will still grace the dessert table in April.

Sheepnose
Oblong and ribbed, this apple looks not unlike a sheep's nose, albeit a dark red one! Originated in Connecticut about 1700, and prized for baking and dessert. Matures in September - October.

Tompkins' County King
To describe this apple, I will yield to Nitschke of Southmeadow: "To my taste, Tompkins' King has no superior for size, beauty or flavor. It always seems to bring back boyhood memories of the way a real apple ought to taste. In addition to being of delicious flavor for eating out of hand, it is one of the finest of apples for sauce, pies, and apple kuchen. It is large, often very large, red and red striped, crisp and juicy." According to Downing, the 19th century authority, its "rich vinous flavor is unexcelled by any other apple for home use." What more can I add, except get one! Dates to before 1800. Ripens late October.

Wealthy
I've always admired this apple, if for no other reason than its name. Originated in 1860 in Excelsior, MN, it is extremely hardy. Its fruit is bright, bright red with very white flesh. Good flavor with a hint of strawberry, great for general eating.

Westfield Seek No Further
Originating in Westfield, MA, before 1750, this creamy yellow apple streaked with red has "crisp juicy flesh of high quality." Not a cooking apple, but great for eating in hand. Ripens October, average keeper.

Yellow Newton Pippin
The apple was bred by the American Colonists for export to Britain, and had to meet fussy British standards for storage during the long ocean voyage. Grown by Franklin and Jefferson, this variety is considered by many to be the "best American apple." It certainly is the best storer -the solid green fruit with a blush of red will keep until May. Excellent for cider, cooking, general use.

-Historic Apples for the Home Orchard
-Garlic Galore
-Fall Landscape Projects
-19th Century Walks and Drives
-Tulipmania!
-A Peony Primer
-New Books for Old Gardens