Ant Infestation

Dear Michael,
My garden is overrun with ants. There are two lanes running along the outside of the house. They’re using my drip system for a freeway. If I water the cracks, a lot of ants come out, many carrying aphids. I think the ants have destroyed all the new growth on some dwarf citrus trees. I can see them on the tuberoses and the leaves are going limp. The gardenia buds are turning yellow.
Linda
Los Angeles, CA

Dear Linda,
It sounds like you have an insect paradise in your garden! The real problem here for the plants is probably not the ants, but the aphids. The relationship between the aphids and ants is quite fascinating, at least from afar, as the ants are actually carrying the aphids to harvest the sugar they produce. The ants move them around to different plants for better forage, stroking their abdomens, which causes them to release a sugary substance that the ants eat. The ant’s symbiotic relationship with the aphids is comparable to humans and cows—the ants are literally milking the aphids!

The other attraction for the ants in your garden is the wateing system, which provides essential moisture in such a dry climate. What to do about all this? My first advice is to call a company called Gardens Alive, a national catalog service that sells biological solutions to garden problems. We’ve often for our own insect dilemmas. The solutions they’ve given us have worked fairly well. Another biological control for ants that we have used is growing tansy, which we then dry and spread around whereever the ants are present. It has worked very well for us: the ants seem to really dislike it. However, tansy can be invasive. While it’s pretty, with a striking golden flower and fern-like foliage and a distinctive aroma, it can really get out of control. So what we recommend is to grow it in a pot where it will be unable to spread around. And don’t let is set seed. Deadhead the plant regularly and simply harvest the leaves as required

Sometimes though biological solutions are not as effective as pesticides, and you may have to resort to something stronger. But I’d call a biological supply company first and see what the experts might be able to suggest.

The Case of the Missing Bulbs
Dear Michael,
I’ve planted numerous species of bulbs during the last couple of years but only a handful of glads and tulips came up and bloomed. Many of them sent up leaves but no flowers, others did nothing at all. I’ve fertilized both years and enriched the soil, so far to no avail. Any suggestions?
Susan Helfman City
Homosassa, FL

Several things could be occurring. One is that you have active squirrels or other rodents that are eating your bulbs. There is not much you can do about that, short of planting a limited quantity in wire containers the animals can’t chew through. This of course is costly, and a pain in the neck. Another factor may be your growing zone – it may just be too warm for Dutch bulbs where you live. Most bulbs require a very specific period of cold dormancy to bloom. Without this trigger, they just never get started. Because I don’t know what varieties you planted, it’s hard to give specific advice, but I would consult with your bulb merchant to find out if the types you planted have a history of doing well in your area.

Chipmunk Problems
Dear Michael,
I have a large planter on my front porch and the chipmunks will not leave it alone. I planted a flat of ivy in it a month ago, and the chipmunks have all but destroyed the plants by digging holes and biting off the leaves. Please, please tell me what I can use around the plants to discourage these guys. I don’t want to hurt them, just get them to leave my ivy alone!
Joanna Dahlbeck
Lakewood, NY

Dear Joanna,
This is another case where a little cayenne should go along way. Sprinkle it liberally on the plants and into any chipmunk holes you see. You should soon be hearing falsetto “Achoo’s” from all over the yard.

Geese Galore

Dear Michael,
I live on the water and have a problem with geese coming into the yard and eating my plants. I tried fencing in the obvious entrances to the yard but they found ways around it. I purchased owl statues with moving heads and moved them around the yard, but that didn’t deter them. I have tried leaving a radio on, with no luck. Do you have any suggestions for a humane way to keep geese out of my yard and garden? Thank you
Garlyn Rinaldo
Massapequa, NY

Dear Garlyn,
Unfortunately, there isn’t much you can do. Fake owls won’t work at all as geese are totally fearless—I know, because I keep them to protect my ducks from predators. They are such good guardians, in fact, that they were famous in ancient times: It was the sacred geese of Juno that saved Rome from being captured in a surprise raid by the Gauls in 390 B.C. The geese fearlessly honked and charged the invaders, while the supposed watchdogs were sound asleep, thereby saving the entire city. But I’m getting off the subject. To answer your question: try sprinkling cayenne pepper on plants that you really want to protect. The geese don’t like the flavor at all and should leave them alone once they get a good mouthful or two! Hope that helps.

Grubs in the Compost
Today when I went to scoop my finished compost out of the bottom of the bin I discovered some rather large grubs (about the size of my thumb) . I do believe they are from the awful June bugs that were hanging around earlier this year..Is there anything I can treat the compost with to reduce the population. Or am I destined to pick and squish. Thanks a million. Ann

Dear Ann,
I am not sure from your description whether or not the grubs you discovered are June bug larvae or not, but you can take a look at http://www.ivyhall.district96.k12.il.us/4th/kkhp/1insects/junebeetle.html and see whether or not the bugs you found resemble the ones shown there. In general, June bugs are pretty harmless, though they can damage lawns in large numbers. The real problem though is your compost management. If the grubs have found a home at the bottom of your compost bin (where they are feeding on decaying organic matter) it means you haven’t been turning your compost sufficiently. A twice monthly, thorough turning from top to bottom will not only provide better compost, but also should eliminate your insect problems. You might also want to consult a good guide, such as Soil and Composting: Taylors Weekend Gardening Guides, which you can purchase through this link in our bookstore.

Composting Horse Manure
Dear Michael,
Not having much green stuff for composting, can I use horse manure, dry leaves, and kitchen waste to get a hot compost going?
Martin Gutierrez
Elkridge, MD

Dear Martin,
Yes, you certainly can, with a few exceptions. Don’t use meat leftovers or dairy products in your compost. Both will smell to high heaven and attract varmints. Also, I’m sure you know that pet waste from cats and dogs is forbidden because of the chance of infectious parasites spreading to the soil. Other than that, anything that can rot is fair game. Just be sure to keep the pile moist and turn it as often as you are able, to speed decomposition.

What to Use in Compost

Dear Michael,
Not having much green stuff for composting, can I use horse manure, dry leaves, and kitchen waste to get a hot compost going?
Martin
Elkridge, MD

Dear Martin,
Yes, you certainly can, with a few exceptions. Don’t use meat leftovers or dairy products in your compost. Both will smell to high heaven and attract varmints. Also, I’m sure you know that pet waste from cats and dogs is forbidden because of the chance of infectious parasites spreading to the soil. Other than that, anything that can rot is fair game. Just be sure to keep the pile moist and turn it as often as you are able, to speed decomposition.

When to Spread Compost

Dear Michael,
When you find yourself with compost in late fall, is it a good idea to go ahead and put it in your garden then? Or is it better to wait until spring?
Deborah
Cambridge, MA

Dear Deborah,
It really doesn’t matter. The trick is to dig make sure is dug into the soil. It doesn’t do too much good to actually just lay compost on top of the ground, because compost itself does not leach its nutrients into the the soil, like partially rotted manure would. To get the benefits from the nutrients and increased humus content, compost needs to be mixed into the root zone. Just putting on the top is not going to do you much good either in spring or in fall. The best time to add compost is when you are creating a new bed; for existing beds, add compost whenever you plant – the digging process naturally mixes the compost into the soil.

Using Horse Manure in the Garden
Dear Michael,
I have access to as much horse manure as I care to use and I have made several compost piles using only this "product." I am currently expanding my raised bed, 25 x 50-foot garden. Is it OK to put manure directly into the garden if I plan to use the garden next spring? I plan to till it in during our mild winters. What advice can you give?
Jim Anding
College Station, TX

Dear Jim,
We don't bother to compost our stable waste at all. The actual horse manure is so mixed in with the wood shavings from the stall that the resulting product is already quite mild and doesn’t seem to burn the plants. We add the manure mix directly into the garden in the late fall and early winter (even over the snow) as a mulch/ top dressing over existing shrub and flower beds, and also as a soil enhancement in areas that are scheduled to be tilled. While some people might mind the mild smell of the manure mulch, most horse owners don't and, in any case, it dissipates within a few days. If you have chickens, you will find that they will break up the clumps and till the manure in for you! The only caveat is that I would not add it directly to food crop areas while they are in growth, as you don't want to take the chance of spreading any contaminants into the kitchen.

Soap and Water vs. Fungus
Dear Michael,
Is it true that one can use a soap-and-water solution to treat fungus on plants such as rhododendrons?
Yvonne Howard
Highland, Maryland

Dear Yvonne,
I have never heard of using soap and water for fungal problems. Such treatment usually is reserved for aphids, mealy bugs and the like on houseplants, which can be thoroughly immersed in the water. You may be thinking of fungicidal soaps, which are a combination of sulfur and fatty acids. According to Organic Pest and Disease Control, part of the Taylor Weekend Gardening Guides series: “These soaps are generally safe to use and break down rapidly in the soil, but they can be poisonous to plants. Test them on a small portion of a plant and wait a day or two to make sure no damage is evident.” Standard chemical fungicides also can be effective, but be sure to read the labels carefully and minimize spraying anything but the affected plants.

Wabbit Worries
Dear Michael,
We enjoy living on the edge of suburbia where it’s almost, but not quite, rural. One of the attractions is the wildlife, including rabbits. We love having petunias, among other things, in our flower beds but have discovered that the rabbits also love them. Short of trapping (dinner anyone?) or fencing (too much of that already), is there any way to discourage the rabbits from eating the petunias? I seem to recall hearing about “home remedy” solutions but the local cooperative extension was not hopeful. Any other ideas?
Sincerely,
Art Bierschbach
Enon, OH

Dear Art,
I am not quite sure how effective this idea will be, not having tried it myself, but perhaps you can test it out. According to herb lore, planting any members of the artemisia family in mass around the garden will deter rabbits and other chewing critters. There are many members of the gray-leaved artemisas, with varying habits. I particularly like the variety ‘Powis Castle.’ All, however, are very aromatic plants with an extremely bitter taste when chewed. One variety was used to make the now-banned absinthe liqueur. Supposedly rabbits don’t like the smell and will avoid the garden if these plants are anywhere in the vicinity. It wouldn’t hurt to try this method. In the worse case scenario, you will have added a very pretty plant to your garden.

Slug Fest
Dear Michael,
I was recently given your website address by a good friend of mine. I just bought a home and it's my first year gardening here. In the past I've had great luck with all veggies, but for the last couple of weeks I've noticed that half of my crops have been devoured...but by what?! At first I thought it was the squirrels. Then I noticed a few snails/slugs crawling around the plot. A friend of mine told me that beer can be used to trap the critters. Well, needless to say, early last night I placed a few metal cans of the stuff around the garden and went out a couple of hours later with a flashlight to have a look around. I was quite taken back by the sight of over 100 snails/slugs crawling not just on the cans, but all over my plants! It was pretty creepy to say the least. What else can I do to get rid of these pests? Please write back if you have any advice. I planted the garden in the first week of April, and now it's almost non-existent in some areas due to this problem. P.S. I’ve also heard about using salt, but I'm afraid that it would kill my plants.
Sincerely,
Wendy Hall,
Margate, NJ

Dear Wendy,
There are commercially-available slug baits, but the beer solution is probably just as effective. The problem is that most people don’t use it correctly, and set out the beer in saucers or open cans. This simply provides a biergarten for the slugs. To get results, you have to open the cans half way with a can opener, pour out a quarter of the beer, and carefully push the half-circle of metal down into the can. Then bury the cans so the tops are exactly at soil level. The slugs will sense the beer, come for a drink, fall into the brewsky, and drown. With an open container, they just escape, sated and probably somewhat inebriated. Hope that helps.

Importance of Testing Soil

Dear Michael,
I am having a problem with the soil in my garden. Plants are dying, and the ground is rock hard no matter how often I water. I planted Japanese box plants, and they survived nine months before they lost their color and died. When I dig up the soil attempting to loosen it, I see it is mostly clay and contains a white powdery substance. I live in the San Francisco Bay Area close to the bay. Any advice?
Eric Linden
Albany, CA

Dear Eric,
My first advice is to have your soil tested. It sounds as if there may be a large pH imbalance as well as a dramatic need for additional organic matter.